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After a rainy half-day layover in Amsterdam (where we of course returned to Pancakes! and went to the Stedelijk Modern Art Museum) we hopped on a short SAS flight to Copenhagen. An uneventful flight and metro ride later, we arrived at the Hotel Fox, a quirky art hotel with one of a kind rooms each created by different artists. We ended up in a somewhat terrifying room full of Lucha Libre masks but (thankfully) ended up moving due to electrical issues and went to their sister property, the Hotel Ibsens. Great place about a mile away in a better neighborhood.

After finally unpacking and settling in, we went in search of dinner and found ourselves at Sticks & Sushi. OMG. It was incredible. I really don’t ever write OMG and I just did – that’s how good it was. For an idea of the aesthetic, check out their beautiful menu online. Kristan and I both got large set meals and they were among the best fish, rolls, and veggie sides that we’ve ever had. Go check it out in Copenhagen or London.

The next two days were a mix of good food, coffee, Scandinavian design, and amusement parks. So pretty fantastic, as you can imagine. We started out at Torvehallerne (food hall), a recently opened SF Ferry building-esque gourmet food market with 50+ individual retailers. Highlights there include The Coffee Collective and Laura’s Bakery. Great cappuccinos and passion fruit tarts.

Normann Copenhagen’s flagship store is housed in an old cinema and had a discount basement where we picked up a $30 strainer for $3. Win. There were of course many other small design shops, but it’s difficult to fit curved plywood furniture in a carryon bag.

We ended our first full day at Tivoli by getting on a few rides, being pretty confused by the main musical act (Nik & Jay?), and having some epic veggie burgers at Woodhouse.

As we prepared to leave Copenhagen, we had a short visit with family friends, took a canal ride, and got on a short flight to Bergen. So long Denmark!


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